Floatron Initial Assembly
Starting Up The Floatron
Cleaning The Floatron Electrode
Replacing The Floatron Electrode
and Closing Your Pool
Do's & Don'ts
Upon receipt of your floatron, unpack all of the
contents, being sure to look inside of the insert for
parts. Read all instructions before proceeding.
Installing your Floatron Ionizer is a snap.
carefully reading the operating instructions:
Inspect the solar panel for any visual damage or
imperfections which may have occurred during shipping.
If any discrepancies are noticed, contact your dealer or
Floatron customer service.
Lay the unit face down on a
smooth surface and with one hand, hold the spring electrode down in a
compressed condition to avoid interference.
Thread either end of the mineral electrode clockwise
onto the silver metal screw stud at the center of the
unit, which is also at the center of the spring
Tighten snugly by hand, about a quarter turn after
contact with the black rubber seal at the base.
Lay endcap / spacer onto end of mineral electrode and
inside of spring.
Place screen cage over electrodes and line up centered
holes with the threaded bore in the mineral electrode
Thread the black thumbscrew clockwise into the electrode
and tighten finger tight, or snugly. Do not over tighten
as the plastic thumbscrew will strip or break if over-torqued.
The spring electrode is permanently installed and is not
removable. Do not attempt removal by twisting or
pulling. Permanent deformation may result.
Save your original box and inserts for safe and
convenient storage during the off season.
The purpose of the screen cage is to trap any deposits
or residues which may form on the electrodes during
normal operation. The screen prevents any particles from
falling into the water.
Your Floatron Solar
Ionizer is now ready for the water, but your water
may not be ready for the
Floatron. You must start it up.
STARTING UP THE
Floatron will protect your pool against
microorganism invasion. Its solar ionization process
transforms your water into biologically healthy and
algae resistant mineral water. Depending on the volume
of water, weather conditions, and usage, the
initialization period will range from about a week to
several weeks. The
Floatron cannot ionize a pool
instantly because it is designed as a trickle charger
with a safe and effective low power output. Therefore,
it is important to maintain a normal sanitizer level
during this initialization period until the ion
concentration reaches a protective level.
Begin with normally chlorinated water, and normal pH for
your pool. Use your regular chlorine test kit to
maintain approximately 1.0 ppm (Parts Per Million)
chlorine residual. More chlorine may be necessary if
Clear the water prior to floating your
Floatron. If your
water is less than clear, it may require a 'shock' dose
of oxidizer / chlorine.
Check for presence of copper ions in the water with the
ion test kit. See 'ION TESTING'. The typical reading at
this point is zero to trace amount (.0 - .1 ppm). If
higher concentrations are detected, this is usually
caused by the previous addition of a copper based
algaecide, if so, manage as outlined under 'ION TESTING'
Free float while ensuring direct sunlight on the unit.
If necessary, tether in a sunny part of the pool any
suitable restraint may be tied to the tethering chain
for this purpose.
Operate pump and filter system during daylight hours
Floatron is generating ions. This will allow
proper mixing and circulation of the minerals. Pump
operation is unnecessary and optional at night, and the
unit can be left in the pool overnight.
ION TESTING To
Determine Proper Chlorine Reduction Levels & When to
Float the Floatron.
The mineral electrode is made of a
unique alloy of several specific metals, predominantly
copper. The ion test kit detects the presence of the
copper ion, thereby enabling you to determine if the
water has an adequate level of protective minerals. The
reagents in the kit are very sensitive, and readings can
be affected by various interferences. Accordingly, use
the ion test as a basic and general indicator. Test only
once a week; more often is unnecessary. Read ion test
kit instructions on the test kit. Weekly checks should
show an increasing concentration over time. The target
is .3 ppm, which upon reaching, chlorine reduction may
begin. If the ion reading climbs to .5 ppm or more,
remove the unit from the water for a week and monitor
ion level (weekly). Once the level drops to .3 ppm or
less, resume floating the unit and continue weekly ion
checks. If the ion level maintains at .3 ppm, then
continue floating full time.
The purpose of ion testing is to
initially determine that it is safe to reduce chlorine,
and subsequently to establish a floating schedule which
results in a steady ion reading of approximately .3 ppm.
Depending on conditions, pools with 20,000 gallons or
more usually require full time floating. Smaller pools
will usually maintain an adequate ion level with a part
time floating schedule. For example, one day in, one day
out, two days in, one day out, one week in, one week
out, etc. Pools with screened enclosures will probably
require full time floating as the output will be about
half of that with normal full sun.
THE FIRST FEW WEEKS:
Getting to know your Floatron
During this period you should witness the ion level
build up to approximately .3 ppm. Float the unit daily
and do not reduce the floating schedule unless the ion
level tends to climb too high. Remember, more ions are
not better. The water has a capacity to hold only a
certain amount of minerals, and attempting to exceed
what is known as 'saturation point' may result in
minerals collecting on pool surfaces. It is important to
spend a few minutes a week to check the ion level and to
keep the electrodes clean (see 'ELECTRODE
CLEANING'). Upon reaching the recommended ion level
of .3 PPM, initiate chlorine reduction by allowing the
chlorine concentration to drop to about half of its
normal level, or approximately .5 ppm. The pH range may
now be expanded from 7.2 - 7.8. The
Floatron works well
at higher pH values, so do not arbitrarily attempt to
adjust the pH if it is within this recommended range.
Keep in mind that the general idea is to use your
Floatron just enough to maintain an adequate ion level,
and to determine how little chlorine is necessary to
keep the water clear. Allow the water to settle down and
seek its own balanced condition. Clean the electrodes
Floatron is the only purifier which, in addition to
generating beneficial mineral ions, collects undesirable
minerals such as calcium and iron. This has the effect
of softening your water. The sacrificial mineral
electrode is designed to slowly erode away, and in the
process will form a scale buildup which will require
occasional cleaning. The spring electrode may also form
a scale, which normally consists of calcium, and should
also be cleaned. The initial rate of buildup will be
quicker in harder water, and will slow as the water
becomes progressively softened. Heavily scaled
electrodes will restrict electrical flow and slow the
ionization process, therefore it is advantageous to
clean them on a weekly basis:
Lay unit face down, preferably on grass.
Remove thumbscrew, screen, and endcap.
Blast with a jet of water from garden hose nozzle, from
different directions, to knock off loose material and
Reduce the water flow, and with water running over the
electrodes, attack buildup with cleaning brush to remove
most of the remainder of residues,
You can also run water over the electrodes, slide the spring
up and down, while making contact with the center
electrode from various directions. The residues will
wash away with the water. If you have a persistent hard
water problem we at recommend the
Magnetizer Pool and Spa Water Conditioner to
effectively manage scale build up. This will also help
you reduce algae growth.
The center electrode need not be cleaned down to bare
metal, although the spring is relatively easy to clean
completely. If the majority of the scale is removed, the
Floatron will perform satisfactorily. It is not possible
to clean the electrodes too much or too often. The
cleaner the electrodes, the more efficient the
Occasionally, the screen will require cleaning to ensure
a free flow of water and ion exchange. Because the mesh
is very fine, deposits can slowly choke the openings in
the screen and restrict water flow. To clean the white
Hose out loose debris and immerse screen in a jar of vinegar until visually free
of blue / white scale buildup,
Mix about 1/3 muratic / hydrochloric acid to 2/3 water
and place screen into a jar containing this mixture. The
cleaning process will take a minute or less. Do not
expose screen to the acid mix for more than a minute or
so as it could soften the plastic.
Rinse the screen and reinstall.
The dilute acid dip can also be used to clean the
electrodes. Place the unit on top of the jar with the
electrodes immersed, and remove when the bubbling action
ceases. Do not leave electrodes submerged for more than
a few minutes. Rinse and reinstall screen.
It is important to spend a few minutes a week to monitor
the water balance, clean the unit, and to learn the
trends. After a couple of months of experience, you
should have a good idea about how little chlorine or
oxidizer, is required, how much floating time does the
job, the best way and frequency to clean the electrodes,
Floatron works well with trace chlorine, or any
other oxidizer of your choice. Algaecides, conditioners,
clarifies, etc., etc., are unnecessary. Higher chlorine
levels may be required with an increase in water
temperature, increased swimmer load, rainfall, or new
water added. If using liquid chlorine, add at or after
sundown because the sun's rays quickly neutralize
chlorine. The recommended levels are not absolute and
may vary with changing water conditions. What works best
for your pool is determined by experience. Allow your
water to seek its own balance. Do not arbitrarily alter
the pH, apply large doses of chlorine (AKA 'Shock'), add
algaecide, add conditioner, or try to change perfectly
clear water. Give your pool water time to stabilize, and
remember, SIMPLICITY IS THE KEY.
The mineral electrode is sacrificial and design to
slowly disintegrate. After an average of 12 - 24 months,
depending on conditions, the electrode will wear away
and require replacement. You will know this when it is
'pencil thin', or about 1/4 inch at its thinnest point.
To remove the spent electrode:
Remove screen and endcap, and clean parts.
While compressing spring electrode with one hand, rotate
center electrode counterclockwise. If necessary, use
pliers for leverage.
Continue to unthread until free.
The procedure for installing the electrode is in reverse
order, and can be found under 'INITIAL ASSEMBLY'.
NOTE: Always keep the same end of the electrode to the
floater. Do not swap ends when removing and replacing
& CLOSING YOU POOL
Whether closing for the winter or for vacation, your
pool water should remain clear for months if you prepare
the pool correctly:
Ensure ion reading is between .3 to .5 ppm. The mineralized water
will protect against algae growth. The ions act as an
algaecide, therefore no need to add additional
Turn off all equipment, including pumps, chlorinators,
If the water is clear, no need to oxidize.
If less than
clear, add chlorine / oxidizer.
Drain water, winterize pumps, cover, etc. as desired.
Clean and remove electrode from the unit and store in an
airtight plastic bag or jar.
If the pool was shut down with an insufficient ion
level, or severe conditions were encountered late in the
off season, less than clear water conditions may be
OPENING: Upon opening:
Top off water level, backwash, and vacuum as necessary.
Add chlorine to clear any cloudiness, if present.
Test ion level.
Float unit to reestablish .3 ppm.
If ion level is below .3 ppm,
Temporarily increase chlorine for protection and
maintain enough oxidizer to ensure water clarity
until appropriate ion level is reached.
Verify pH is within 7.2 - 7.8 Range. Correct if
It is highly unlikely that your
Floatron will not
generate ions. Should there be any doubt, the following
quick check will visually prove electrical generation:
Fill a clear, glass or plastic,
quart sized jar or equivalent with pool or tap
Clean electrodes and leave screen
Floatron on the top of
the jar, resting on the lip, with the electrodes
immersed in the water. With a full sun shining on
the solar panel, very fine bubbles will be observed
after a few seconds originating from the spring
coils. This demonstrates that electrical current is
being generated. Absence of bubbles indicates a
Spent cleaning acid may be poured back into pool.
Allow new plaster type finishes to cure for a month
prior to using the
Baking soda works well to raise pH, and is readily
available and reasonably priced. The
Magnetizer also helps to normalize pH
Household bleach works excellently for small and medium
sized pools. For large pools, too many gallons may be
required, making more concentrated forms of chlorine
Keep a tablet of chlorine in the skimmer, or floating
dispenser, to provide a constant input of oxidizer into
the pool. When necessary, ad an additional boost of
liquid or granulated chlorine to maintain clear water.
A toothbrush helps in electrode and screen cleaning.
A cutoff golf tee can be used to secure the screen if
the thumbscrew is lost.
Store chlorine in a cool and dark place.
Keep ion test kit in refrigerator.
Check water hardness, measured as total dissolved solids
(TDS) at your local pool store. Readings of
approximately 2000 PPM or greater indicate the need to
drain and refill with refresh water. If that is not
possible, partial draining and refilling is beneficial.
With a high TDS, the water cannot absorb and retain
minerals very easily.
The addition of cyanuric acid (stabilizer) is not
necessary if you already use a stabilized form of
chlorine, such as tablets.
Floatron works well with a pool cover. The choices
are to open the cover enough to float the unit, or cut a
3 inch "X" into the cover which allows the electrodes to
remain in the water while the top is exposed to the sun.
Clear, high quality water without algae, and an
abnormally low ion reading, does not necessarily
indicate that your
Floatron is not functioning properly,
in this situation, call the factory.
When replacing the mineral electrode, ensure that the
threads are dry and free of water.
In hard water conditions, over time, the solar panel may
form calcium deposits which are left by water
evaporation. To quickly and easily remove the scale,
apply diluted acid / water (as described under
'ELECTRODE CLEANING') with a toothbrush. Allow to
dissolve deposits and rinse. Vinegar may be used
although more time will be required to do the job.
DO'S AND DON'TS
Do not automatically take advice for granted from
those who are not experienced with the
type of expert opinion is often influenced by the desire
to sell or use chlorine and related pool chemicals,
additionally, recommendations more often than not
reflect a chlorine based pool chemistry, and are not
applicable to ionized water.
Do not add any clarifiers or metal removers which will
eliminate the beneficial mineral ions generated by your
Do not use with Baquacil or Soft Swim brand products, or
others with similar chemistry. These chemicals must be
removed from the water first.
Addition of algaecide is unnecessary as the Floatron is
an algaecide generator.
'Shocking' ionized mineral water is poor technique. It's
like an atomic bomb to the water. The water should be
finessed. Oxidizer should be added at reduced dosages to
clarify cloudy water.